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Aiko Ohno dives in the cool waters near Japan’s Ise-Shima National Park, scanning the rocky sea for urchins and turban shells. Three meters deep, he swims easily without an oxygen tank, using his goggles, fins, weight belt and sugar, a mesh net attached to a floating ring.
“I just love the sea and being in the water,” he said after waking up.
Ohno is an ama diver, or “woman of the sea” as they are known in Japan. For centuries, these traditional fisherwomen have lived off the wealth of the waters around the Ise-Shima region, gathering seafood to sell in the market.
“We live together with nature – we don’t take too much, and we’re careful to protect it. It’s a tradition that’s been passed down for thousands of years,” said Ohno, who moved here nine years ago from Tokyo to become an ama diver.
Today, the Pacific Ocean is in rough shape – the remnants of a late-season typhoon – so Ohno and his group of free divers don’t stay in the water for long. But they don’t need to – within 10 minutes their nets start to fill up.
Age is no barrier here. At 46, Ohno is one of the youngest in his group – the oldest dancer today is 74.
A once thriving industry, only about 2,000 divers remain in Japan now, according to estimates. Most of them are located in this beautiful region.
“Old divers still come here every day with a smile. I’ve learned that maybe that’s what gives them what we call them iqayi, or a reason to live,” said Ohno.
“These days, very few daughters of amas become divers, so I will probably be the only one of my generation to take over. But it’s something I love.”
Here in Ise-Shima, you can meet some of these living legends. Across the region, it’s a minority goyas, or diver huts, remote dot beaches, some that allow visitors to learn about ama culture and taste their latest catch.
Located in the eastern part of Mie prefecture, Ise-Shima is a place where ancient traditions, spirituality and the great outdoors collide. Where the green mountains give way to a wide coastline, small protected areas and remote islands. And when life is slow – the way the locals like it.
Far from the hustle and bustle of major centers like Tokyo and Osaka, which have record numbers of tourists, Ise-Shima is untouched.
Although the area has been a popular tourist destination for locals for centuries, when it comes to international tourism it remains one of Japan’s best-kept secrets.
A journey to the ‘soul of Japan’
Ise Jingu is made up of 125 Shinto shrines. – CNN
Since the Edo period (between 1603 and 1868), pilgrims have come to this area to visit Japan’s Shinto shrine.
Ise Jingu is an ancient center of Shinto spirituality. Consisting of 125 shrines, this sprawling complex is home to the shrines of Naiku and Geko – known as the soul of Japan.
Each year, millions of visitors come to pray to the sun god, Amaterasu Omikami, and to soak up the natural beauty of the area. Here, centuries-old Japanese cedars and cypress trees tower over buildings.
A visit to this serene shrine, located in Ise City, is considered a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many in Japan.
Ise Jingu is also the gateway to the vast Ise-Shima National Park.
Stretching 55,500 hectares in size from the mountains to the sea – or almost the size of France – this region’s access to nature makes it the perfect place to enjoy the great outdoors.
The ancient practice of waterfall mediation
About 30 minutes by car from Ise Jingu, nestled in the lush Toba Mountains, sits the sacred Shirataki Falls.
Here, visitors can experience a centuries-old Buddhist tradition called takigyo, or waterfall meditation, which involves sitting under a rushing stream to help cleanse the body and spirit.
“This place has been a place of nature worship for 1,300 years, where people cleanse themselves with water,” said Shigeki Matsumoto, chairman of the Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association, as he walked with us through the forest.
“This practice is said to remove distractions and help you find a positive path in your life.”
But culture is not for the faint of heart. The Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association leads pilgrims to experience the full force of cold water flowing down the mountain all year round, even in winter.
Fun practice requires self-discipline and mindfulness, checking your body and mind, as CNN senior reporter Will Ripley found out.
Hikers can warm up afterwards in one of the many forest saunas downstream from the falls.
Those interested in trying it should make a reservation in advance with the Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association.
Get a heartbeat
A range of outdoor activities can be enjoyed in the Ise-Shima area, from hiking and biking to ziplining and even skydiving.
One of the best ways to explore the area is on four wheels.
In the south of the national park, near Minamiise City, there is a labyrinth of off-road trails waiting to be explored by ATV.
Kosuke Nakanishi is a local Ise guide who has spent years taking tourists off the beaten path.
He takes us through the forest, across muddy tracks and up to a coastal overlook to fully immerse ourselves in the beauty of the peninsula.
“I like being surrounded by nature and being active, so this is the right job for me,” said the director, who works with Taso Shirahama Resort.
“I love the mountains and the sea, so I can shut my mind and relax when I’m here.”
A taste of Ise-Shima
Ran Restaurant serves local dishes inspired by the flavors of the season. – CNN
Surrounded by the Pacific, Ise-Shima is known for its abundance of marine life.
In the past this region was given the status of miketsukunimeaning seafood from the surrounding area, such as spiny lobster and abalone, was sought after by the Japanese royal family.
Today, Ise-Shima seafood can be found in high-end restaurants all over Japan. But where better to sample it than straight from the source?
Whether it’s from a low-end restaurant that serves the daily catch to restaurants that offer a little taste of luxury, there’s no shortage of places to enjoy fresh seafood.
Located on the edge of Ise-Shima National Park, Ran is a restaurant at the Oyado The Earth hotel that offers guests a taste of the region and panoramic views of the Pacific.
Head chef Mototsugu Yamakawa specializes in Kaiseki, a meticulous style of cuisine that reflects Japan’s seasons.
For almost two decades they have been proud to serve fresh seafood from the peninsula, and the springs are productive for divers when possible.
The restaurant’s menu changes seasonally, when chef Yamakawa and his team create edible art. Their current star bowl? Black abalone mixed with kohlrabi.
“Japanese food is a visual feast to be enjoyed with the eyes and sense of the season. That is the best part of our food,” said the chef.
“We want to offer our customers delicious food from here. The freshness is different when you cook with seafood directly from the sea, so it gives you a completely different taste. As long as I am here, I want to continue to protect the ama culture and the environment.”
Getting there: Visiting Ise-Shima requires deviating from popular tourist routes. It’s a three-hour drive or train ride from Osaka’s Kansai International Airport.
But that’s what makes this place so special. Travelers are treated to a different side of Japan — one of adventure, ancient traditions and timeless beauty.
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