Exploring the Pinehurst area, on and off the trail

In the early days of the area, many out-of-towners arrived by train.

Riding the rails from metropolitan centers along the eastern seaboard, they disembarked at the newly built Southern Pines, NC, where horse-drawn wagons awaited to take them to one last stop: Pinehurst.

This was in the early 1900s. More than a century later, trains are still running through this very station. But carriages have opened up to shuttles, and the Pinehurst area has transformed from a sleepy golf and wellness getaway into one of the world’s premier marquee attractions.

On a recent business trip that felt like work, my colleague, James Colgan, and I got together to explore what the region had to offer. Unlike travelers of old, we both flew in, landed from the opposite coast in Raleigh, and then drove an hour in a rental car. For the first two days, we enjoyed a survey course of classic golf course architecture, from the Golden Age to the modern-minimalist era inspired by the Golden Age. Specifically, we started at Pine Needles, where we learned about the tricks of Donald Ross, before moving on to a new course at Pinehurst Resort, Pinehurst No. rolling over the humps and bumps of the dormant mining earth.

Now, on the third and last day of what was admittedly a very short stay, we were doing everything we could. As a base camp, we chose Talamore, an under-the-radar place to stay and play that includes tastefully appointed lodges and three 18-hole courses: Talamore Golf Club, Legacy Golf Links, and Mid South Club, by Rees. Jones, Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer, respectively. Like the work of Ross’ Golden Age, these three projects reflect the beauty of their time, in peaceful, tree-lined areas, with different requirements for shots on fairways and well-kept greens. In the well-kept Mid South, James, who is half my age and almost twice my size, used to outrun me by 50 yards. But since he was very dominant, he could not join me that night at the table. One of the great perks for guests at Talamore is the ‘pig pickin’ available on Monday and Thursday evenings, with slow-smoked BBQ pork, with sides of slaw, beans, collards and slaw. various piquant sauces. By eating my body weight in all of the above, I left James in the dust in a gluttonous place.

For all the recognition it gets for golf, the Pinehurst area gets less attention for the quality and eclecticism of its food. Sushi. Tacos. Yakitori. The Cacciatore. The restaurant’s composite image belies the golf world’s reputation for little more than burgers, dogs and beer.

Of course, if that’s what you’re looking for, you can find it, too. Local breweries abound, and the burgers at Chapman’s, in downtown Southern Pines, are hard to beat. We ate ours at the bar, where we washed down our meal with Marytinis. How these drinks differed from classic martinis, except that they were mixed by a kind bartender named Mary, I can’t say for sure. All I know is that they were strong and delicious, and because James wasn’t driving, he ordered two.

It wouldn’t be a world-class golf course if it weren’t for the many first-rate 19 holes. The Pinehurst area has too many to list. But none has a more compelling backstory than BHAWK, the American whiskey distillery founded by husband and wife, Brad and Jess Halling. They are both military veterans, with 49 years of service together, one of which was in 1993, when Brad lost his leg in the battle of Mogadishu, a deadly battle that was later remembered in the film. Black Hawk Down. The restaurant Hallings has put together – an expansive, modern space with bar and table seating, a patio in the back, and a terrific menu of casual, regional cooking paired with spirits – is easy going and inviting, and full of good qualities. to the men and women, including the aircrew who helped save Brad’s life on the battlefield.

We stopped at BHAWK in the late afternoon, and by the time we left, humbled by our conversations with Brad and Jess, and amazed by the flights of bourbon and whiskey they were pouring, there was just enough daylight to squeeze in one last visit to the course. .

As a farewell to the beautiful fairways of the Pinehurst area, we chose a worthy candidate at Southern Pines Golf Club, another star in the local constellation of Ross designs. However, for years, its brilliance was not seen by outsiders until a 2021 renovation by architect Kyle Franz brought Ross’ muted features to the fore.

When one sleeps, Southern Pines has become a national architectural darling, and anyone, frankly, who enjoys an unspoiled good walk. But if Southern Pines is no longer a local secret, it still seems to be nowhere to be found when we arrive that afternoon. The course was empty again, we grabbed a few clubs, hit a few holes, enjoyed some relaxing photos of our trip on the Golden Age sail, enlivened by the light and shadow of the golden hour.

On the way back to our condo, we cut through the town of Southern Pines. The train was slowly rumbling towards the airport. The sight and sound of it – remnants of what now seems like a simpler time – made me want to stay longer. There was so much to do and see, and so much golf to play. But the next morning, I had a flight to catch.

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